There’s something very special about Ha Ha Bar. Among the soaring new apartment towers and the giant shopping mall, this gorgeous little bar and restaurant has brought big-city sophistication with an urban edge for over ten years.

As soon as you enter, a feeling of serenity is immediate. Be it the light, atmospheric music, the subtle lighting, or the beautiful view over the lake, this is one of the prettiest spots in Canberra to kick back with a gorgeous glass of wine and a snack and let the hours roll by.

The presentation extends to the plate and, to kick things off, it’s the beetroot-cured salmon that brings a huge hit of colour against the backdrop of it’s slate-grey plate. Served with potato balls, fennel and citrus salad, the orange salmon takes on the hue of the beetroot.

It’s a dish that keeps on giving. Slices of orange adds the sweetness, and the well-hidden capers add a surprising bolt of tang. It’s all very well-put together with a real sense of fun. Perfect for Ha Ha Bar!

Another great starter – which you can share with friends (or not, as the menu implies) – is confit octopus. You don’t come across the technique often – and more’s the pity. The technique removes all the chewiness from the flesh, providing a totally different texture to what you might expect.

By finishing it off under the grill, the slightly charred skin adds a richness to the flavour and plays along nicely with the accompanying chorizo. Add some pureed avocado and a delicious tomato salsa, and we don’t need to tell you that this is something to get excited about.

Next, a collection of baby beets decorates the plate in the stunning fashion we’ve come to expect. The diminutive roots come in the traditional purple, as well as yellow and orange, and are fantastic with the labneh and dusting of dukkah. The showstopper is the tempura artichokes which, again, introduce and entirely new and unexpected technique. It’s really, really clever.

One of the stunning new dishes for the autumn menu is lamb belly (yep – the surprises keep on coming!), and is another incredible arrangement of flavours that shows just how good the food coming out of the kitchen can be.

Twirls of potato puree frames, the rolls of lamb, and the presence of white anchovies does nothing to upset the balance. There are a couple of other surprises on the plate, but you’re going to have to go in and discover them for yourself!

To finish, Ha Ha Bar takes the classic vanilla panna cotta, and sets it on a plate with a thick and rich raspberry coulis, silky smooth chocolate ice cream, and half a poached apricot. Its kind of a DIY dish – simply grab some of the crunchy biscuit and pile it all together.