Take a trip to South America – to a time of grand monuments and sun worship. Sitting in the large windows of One Restaurant located on the first floor of Canberra’s Novotel, it seems yet again the sun beams down on a city with enough monuments to make the ancients bow in wonder.
And so here we find ourselves, cruising the menu designed by Executive Chef Steven Fraser in a tribute to the National Gallery of Australia’s Gold and the Incas exhibition. With a playful focus on flavours from South America, Mexico and even China, the menu offers a rare opportunity to explore the cuisines of far-flung lands in a thoroughly contemporary setting.
Ceviche comes with the delicate white fish cubed – a nice change from the prevalent diced-style that populates many modern menus around town. The first bite reveals why diners are flocking to this dish – the hit of lime, chilli and garlic is the perfect way to start on a summer’s evening. The additional crunch of red onion and the crackle of sweet potato crisps rounds out the plate for both the eye and the palate.
An entrée of Char-grilled Spring Lamb (Cordero Primavera) is always a favourite – the crisp outer gives way to a succulent and juicy meat within that is perfectly cooked and rested. The smoked eggplant caviar offers a playful touch while the goat’s curd cheese adds creamy delight.
Have you got a hungry boy at the table? For mains, the perfect dish may be the Charcoal Blackened Chicken served with chunky fries and a traditional chilli sauce, thick cut fries and a healthy dollop of habanero sauce. Salad is simply there for colour, meaning this dish is protein and carbs writ large – and delicious!
Desserts take on a whole new landscape, fitting with the restaurant theme. One rather unique dessert – Suspiro Limeno –takes you to another place; one that is indulgent, creamy and rich. Constructed of Peruvian lemon curd topped with an Italian meringue, if you’re somehow left unsatisfied by the sparkling array of South American-inspired dishes in earlier courses, this one will leave you filled and contented. Keep some of those delicious berries on the side handy, though. You’ll appreciate the hit of acid that clears the palate for more of the irresistible dessert ¡Muy bien!
Fondant de Chocolate Caliente is a classic fondant flavoured with the real gold of South America – chocolate. It does what a great fondant should, opens with barest pressure from the fork to reveal the wonderfully gooey chocolate from within. It’s the classic way to finish off a meal, and a safe choice for those not daring enough to try the lemon curd.
Be sure to make your way to One Restaurant and Bar upstairs at Novotel Canberra. Whether you’re a local, or just visiting the city (perhaps for a major exhibition at the National Gallery) with a frequently changing menu filled with adventurous there are plenty of reasons to enjoy (or return) to One Restaurant and Bar.
