Canberra is currently blessed with a number of restaurants exploring the true potential of meat. However, no one has looked to Europe for influence quite like Marble & Grain, whose new space on Mort Street in Braddon – as a part of the Avenue Hotel – brings a certain savoir fare to a tradition that can easily get weighed down in the cooking styles of old.
Not here.
The simple philosophy of Marble & Grain is to look at the classic elements of European Steakhouses and deliver them in a modern form. The Blood Pudding is an excellent execution of this mantra; forget the old-fashioned and chewy discs of yesteryear. Executive Chef Matt Taylor has reinvented the classic by presenting quenelles made from venison blood served with red onion and celery. Be sure to use the crispy bread sticks instead of cutlery – the texture is the perfect foil to the rich and creamy venison. A lovely touch is the hint of hazelnut that adds an extra feeling of warmth.
The Scallops are another clever little combination, with each of the delicate, fleshy morsels concealing an indulgent dollop of foie gras. Pearls of celery collect around the plate, combining with ribbons of celery to add a visual contrast. The resultant flavour is one on depth underlying the sweetness of the scallops. It’s nice to see celery back; and in particular the leaves. It lifts the palate and is a much under-utilised element on Australian menus. Here, the European influence is strong.
The Spring Lamb Shoulder is rolled and comes served on a bed of colour. Vibrant zucchini flowers and lavender offset perfectly pink meat, while a zesty serving of ratatouille adds more vibrancy to the dish’s palette. The lamb itself simply melts in the mouth, revealing chopped black olives within its folded layers.
Sometimes though, the simple things in life are the best. As an example, Marble & Grain’s Smoked Angus Rump Cap from Ranger’s Valley allows the quality of the meat to speak for itself. The delicious, red flesh proudly shows off the beef’s marbling. Topped with crumbs of dehydrated marrow and anchovy – eschewing the traditional salt and pepper for this contemporary touch – the result is stunning. Meanwhile, a bright bean puree adds a visual highlight and provides the perfect antidote for those accused of not eating their greens
After all that, dessert is in order, and the Marble & Grain menu doesn’t shy from delivering delicious treats. A Parsnip Brûlée brings another classic European vegetable to the fore, and the result is stunning. With a clever addition of a red wine and coffee sorbet set in quenelles atop the broad disc of brûlée, you are unlikely to come across such a unique combination of flavours that combine so well in a dessert.
Conversely, the Chocolate Tart looks simple enough on the menu, however the attention to detail present upon the resulting plate cannot be overstated. Even the tiny droplets of mandarin that rest upon the tart’s surface are perfectly placed – obediently descending in order of size. It makes you wonder how a busy kitchen has time to pay attention to such details, however with this level of consideration throughout every dish, Marble & Grain matches its stunning dining room for delivering old world panache with modern day aesthetics.
With a wine list that represents the very best of Australian growers, and a kitchen team dedicated to sourcing local ingredients where possible (if not making them in house from scratch!) Marble & Grain represents an exciting new take on the classic steakhouse and adds a whole new dimension to Canberra’s dining scene.
