It’s a dark and stormy autumn night in our nation’s capital as I arrive at the starkly illuminated Belconnen Premier Inn to dine at Benjamin’s Restaurant. My dining partner and I are greeted warmly by the restaurant manager Will Kay and ushered to our window seat situated in equal measure between the round bar and the bustling open kitchen.
Immediately I’m struck with a sense of comfort by the cosy atmosphere at Benjamin’s. With the clean lines and patterned glass features of a formal restaurant serving modern Australian food, I understood quickly that Benjamin’s was not just another restaurant in a Canberra hotel, catering mainly to out-of-towners and business functions.
The menu and overall vibe at Benjamin’s has changed course over the past few months. Portion sizes have increased and price points have dropped in order to make the restaurant more accessible. The new menu reflects the mixed cuisine influences of the head chef, Kevin Lindsay, who came to Benjamin’s a few months ago from the Diplomat Hotel Restaurant and Sous Chef, Long Phan who came from Rocksalt in Hawker, but trained previously under Kylie Kwong and Neil Perry in Sydney.
We start with the roast vegetable and Persian fetta tart, finished with roast beetroot compote ($17.5) and the shredded duck salad with a chilli ginger sauce ($19), and are taken on a journey by the happy combination of flavours and the accompanying wines chosen for us by a very helpful Will Kay.
Our mains are the dining highlight and represent exceptional value. The char siu pork cutlet ($29) is sweetly marinated and cooked to perfection, and the flavour is only enhanced by the bed of stir fried vegetables and crispy noodles upon which it is served.
The sesame crusted ocean trout served with a potato gallette and on pea puree ($27.5) is a classic fish dish of subtle but distinct flavour. I am impressed by the variety and volume of fresh vegetables in the entrees and mains, which make them good choices for the health conscious. I am also pleased to see the denoting of gluten free dishes and several vegetarian options on the menu.
Early on in the evening the restaurant was quiet with a few, presumably hotel guests, having drinks in the bar area. The number of people steadily increased and by the time our dessert arrives the restaurant is almost full with an even mix of low key private dinners and larger tables of guests. I can only imagine that this already lively atmosphere would improve towards the weekend, when Benjamin’s hosts a visiting pianist on Thursday and Friday evenings.
I am told that the restaurant is also looking to introduce a rotating artist series, which it first trialled during the busy hotel period brought on by the Masterpieces from Paris exhibition at the National Gallery. A resident artist was chosen based on their portfolio to display work in the restaurant and also participated in a combined performance piece with the regular pianist, painting to the music.
After the success of this experience, another artist has been chosen with the exhibition commencing soon, giving me ample reason to return. I can see that the colour and expression of art would sit magnificently among the crisp white linens, neutral colours and muted lighting of Benjamin’s semi-circle shaped room.
Our desserts are presented exquisitely and take me back to the tempered chocolate tension of the MasterChef final with their elaborate features. Although we did not try them, I’m also happy to see that Benjamin’s offer dessert wines, which are so often neglected in medium price range restaurants.
The assiette of chocolate ($15) is an ever-changing selection of three delicacies and the strawberry short crust ($13.5) represents a wonderfully fresh bite of Wimbledon with the mixed textures of the crispy short crust, smooth cream and fresh strawberries accompanied by berry compote.
The stand-out desserts were a suitable way to end an enjoyable and relaxed dining experience, assisted smoothly by the friendly and attentive service.
Benjamin’s brings warmth to the Canberra’s culinary offerings, where one could easily have a quiet dinner, large birthday celebration or a function for up to 120 people, catered by the restaurant in the function room upstairs. I am confident that the new menu and direction, combined with the speedy growth and developments in Belconnen Town Centre will ensure further success on the Canberra dining scene.
