As those who dine out in Canberra regularly will know, we have some pretty fabulous restaurants in this town. This has been further emphasised by the recent awarding of Australian Good Food and Travel Guide Chef Hats to seven local restaurants, including the recently rejuvenated artespresso in Kingston.
I have been a long-time fan of artespresso, and when news came my way that a new Hat had been awarded and that a fresh team of floor and kitchen staff had been appointed I wasted no time in checking things out.
My friend and I were seated promptly and were quick to order a couple of glasses of vino to ease the Mondayitis we were both suffering. The new menu is interesting and varied with a range of different entrees and mains, plus vegetarian and gluten-free options.
For entree I ordered the scallops wrapped in jamon with a tomato and chive salsa and dressed with a lemon infused olive oil. The young and enthusiastic Sous Chef Rhy O’Neill explained that the fresh, juicy scallops were sourced from Canada. The scallops were cooked perfectly and the salsa was a lovely fresh, light accompaniment.
My friend chose the pork belly. This dish was a delight; the thick, rich pork belly was served with a surprisingly tart plum compote, doikon radish salad and a honey horseradish glaze. Definitely a variation on the same old, average pork belly you so often get – this was something special.
For my main, I selected the 220g sirloin steak. I am pretty fussy when it comes to the way my steak is cooked, however, Rhy grilled my steak perfectly rare, just the way it should be. It came served with a side of rich red beetroot puree, kipfler potatoes and wild mushrooms that had a wonderful creamy texture. The steak was then seasoned with black pepper powder and a light cabernet jus.
I encouraged my friend to try the fascinating Risotto Nero. This is a classic dish made from squid ink that originated in Venice. The squid ink risotto may look harsh however it has a surprisingly delicate flavour and a wonderful rich aroma – the flavour of the ink really balances the meal. The risotto was served with tender baby octopus, fresh prawns and ripe mussels topped with a sprinkling of fresh herbs. A must for true seafood lovers.
We were so full and satisfied by this stage, we couldn’t bear to eat another bite – until we saw the dessert menu. We just had to try the Dark Chocolate Marquise. This dish was the standout of the meal. The dish, named after the French aristocrat, Marquis de Sade who had a legendary love of chocolate, is a delicate, yet completely decadent, chocolate dessert made of dark chocolate, heavy cream, egg yolks, butter and sugar – almost like a mousse. Served with a tart balsamic reduction and a refreshing cranberry gel and garnished with crispy candied hazelnuts, whispy pieces of ‘vanilla snow’ and simply amazing fragments of chocolate crisps. This dish is for the serious chocoholics and is simply amazing.
artespresso is a Canberra staple, perfect to take a date you are trying to impress, celebrate a special birthday, or hold an exclusive business dinner. It is also the kind of place you could spend a relaxing morning reading the papers and enjoying a light breakfast. The reinvented artespresso has a traditional yet fascinating menu, coupled with attentive team of Craig mortimer, Shann Howman, Daniel Keogh and Rhy O’Neal who make it a pleasure to visit.
Photography by Chris Whitfield
