Taking the Taste & Test – that’s a great way to spend a Thursday night. And so it was, with Spring’s evening light slowly dipping down behind The Brindabellas that OutInCanberra entered Sage Dining Rooms in Braddon to take part in the seasonal assessment of future flavours and styles.
The concept is simple, but highly effective. It’s each diner’s duty to judge each of the five dishes presented each evening. A sense of intrigue comes from the fact that, aside from dietary adjustments, there’s no menu to describe what is on offer. The chefs at Sage simply select a series of new-season flavours and the kitchen team work to create something never seen before, based on the feedback of previous evenings.
Feedback? Well, in the centre of the table sits a sleek glass filled with old-school Staedtler HB pencils, tipped with erasers that take you back to memories of teachers in Year Two. The absence of pens is a smart move, especially given the levels of debate that can be heard around the restaurant as diners negotiate the textures, balance and flavours.
That’s the fun of the philosophy for Taste & Test – taking part in determining what will appear on Sage’s menu for Spring and Summer 2014/15.
The first course of Poached Prawn with and avocado wasabi paste, charred onion aoli and a nori crisp was the perfect way to introduce the concept to the table, demonstrating how Taste & Test offers the opportunity for the kitchen to spread its creative wings through unconventional flavour combinations.
A highlight was the hit of smoked paprika that, along with the other ingredients, delivered a great depth of flavour, building on the sweetness of the charred onion aoli. Matched with a glass of white – an Argentinian Torrontes – Sage demonstrates great agility to match a brand new dish with a compelling wine.
By the time you head into the mid-stages of the menu, the flavours have really started to ramp up – and so have the risks. A course of Pork Hock with Pan-Seared Swordfish sounds an unlikely combination – and it is! But, hey… isn’t that what this season of dining at Sage is all about?
The dish presents beautifully, with the four clear layers displaying bold and broad colours. The Chinese master stock used to slow-braise the pork, creates a meat that is incredibly tender and rich. All around the table eyes lit up as we tasted the delicious pork. The Grilled Swordfish was perfectly cooked – lightly caramelised and slightly pink in the centre – exactly the way it should be.
This was an incredible take on a ‘surf and turf’ that had a lot of interesting ideas to consider and debate. This is what Taste & Test is all about.
To drink, the pairings include a non-alcoholic ginger beer or a glass of delicate rosé. The Ginger Beer, garnished with a sprig of rosemary was the taste sensation of the night, thanks to the competing flavours of the ginger and rosemary. We’d like to say it’s better than the wine, but really, how can you go past a French rosé? Packed with the flavour of strawberries, it played off beautifully against the pork.
Five courses wouldn’t be complete without some dessert, and arrival of Gorgonzola Doughnuts signals a fun way to finish. Served with a pear sorbet and candied pecans, once again the dazzling array of flavours and textures commands investigation. The round doughnuts spill their hot and gooey cheese across the plate, creating a great contrast against the cold sorbet. Meanwhile, the candied pecans dance beautifully with a glass of muscat, served as a delicious finishing wine.
Taste & Test is a brilliant way to be a part of the kitchen – almost staring over the chef’s shoulders as he considers the nightly offerings. “Will this combination work?” you both wonder, and the answer is all part of the adventure.
Taste & Test is available from Tuesday to Thursday at Sage Dining Rooms until 9 October. Five Courses for $75.00, with a wine pairing for an additional $45.00. The non-alcoholic beverage version is $25.00.
