With all the hype and speculation that surrounds the opening of a new Canberra eatery in a hot spot such as Manuka, I could hardly contain myself as I leapt towards the big black doors of Urban Pantry.
It isn’t solely a dinner venue, nor is it simply a cafe. Urban pantry is a concept, a space of versatility amongst the inner south cafe scene.
I’m told that from the early hours of the morning, the pantry swings into action with the daily delivery of Sonoma organic sourdough fresh from Sydney, which is used on the menu but also on sale to diners.
My Urban Pantry dining experience begins with the calamari dusted with lemon salt and served on a salad of fennel and radicchio with aioli ($19), a refreshingly light starter with the richness of the lightly battered calamari contrasted by the slightly bitter radicchio based salad. Our knowledgeable waiter, Fergus, chooses a mix of Canberra district, Australian and imported wines to go with our dishes.
The house made ricotta gnocchi with tomatoes, capers and olives finished with a white anchovy dressing ($24) shows the consideration given to the planning and execution of each dish. The gnocchi is actually a mix of two different kinds of Italian dumplings – the traditional potato and flour gnocchi, and the ricotta version called ‘gnudi’. This fusion makes for fluffier and slightly larger cheesy morsels, which are harnessed by the rich Mediterranean flavours of tomatoes, capers, olives and anchovies.
The most impressive dish we sampled, and perhaps the dish that I think best encapsulates what Urban Pantry is trying to achieve, is the eye fillet, spinach puree, exotic mushrooms & eschalots with nuts and grains finished with a sparkling Shiraz jus ($36). Cooked to perfection, shrouded in mushrooms and caramelised eschalots, it melted in our mouths. The hazelnuts, quinoa and buttery spinach puree nestled underneath the eye fillet made for a cleansing and nutritious conclusion to each mouthful. Our eye fillet was accompanied by a side of green beans with butter, almonds and currants ($8).
For dessert my dining partner and I were treated to the warm honey tart and salty peanut butter ice cream ($13), fresh and decadent.
Kicking back at our table in the middle of the dining room, we are able to really absorb our surroundings. There are subtle touches and a personal feel that distinguishes Urban Pantry from other venues.
For too long the standard for eateries in Manuka and Kingston have been impersonal, existing to serve the seemingly never-ending demand of the nearby working population during the week and locals on weekends.
The personal feel extends from the unassuming but carefully crafted interior and exterior, to the friendly and relaxed but professional and informative service from staff.
The functional and minimalist wooden interior shifts the focus away from the surroundings and onto the diner, and their individual dining experience. Offering a unique experience in a space where restaurant ventures have tried before, but never succeeded, Urban Pantry is a direct challenge to the Canberra dining scene with its fresh approach. It’s not the place to be seen, but rather the place to simply be.
The kitchen opens at 7.30am where baristas are at the ready, making coffee for those who arrive a bit earlier. The menu is comprehensive; sensitive to vegetarian, vegan and gluten free diets for breakfast, lunch, dinner as well as light meals and fresh sweets for everything in between. There’s also free wireless internet.
As spring gains momentum, I’m told there will be jazz on the lawns outside, an event for Melbourne cup day, and alfresco dining under the trees, all day long.
