Mere minutes from Braddon and the busy city centre sits Courtyard Restaurant in the historic Hotel Ainslie. Now operating as the Mercure Hotel Canberra, this represents a rare opportunity to feel like you’re stepping back in time. Built in 1927, the heritage building displays all the classic elements of early Canberra architecture.

It’s easy to fall in love with the striking deco windows, the gorgeous fireplace in the foyer surrounded by wing-back chairs… the wood panelling on the walls. It sets an atmosphere of class and comfort that leads you right to the doors of Courtyard Restaurant.

Executive Chef Raymond Sheerin has developed a friendly and approachable menu that offers plenty of modern classics that are presented with unique flair and attention to details

Seared Scallops are always the perfect way to get the palate ready for the main course, and we were particularly impressed by the addition of caviar to make this a true seafood treat. Cooked perfectly, the scallops tread the wonderfully fine line between softness and texture, and the accompanying tomato and caper salsa provides necessary tang. We’ll definitely have some more of the accompanying bacon powder (can we buy it by the jar at reception?).

The Tender Chicken Breast with Saltimbocca is served on a mushroom risotto. Delicate dollops of salsa verde add a hint of acid that brings balance to the deliciously rich and tender starter. The breast is wrapped in prosciutto that adds a hit of salt elevating the delicate flavour. When combined with the sweetness of the creamed corn polenta – well as charred corn – it’s all there on the plate to enjoy.

For mains, there is plenty of variety. For the Salmon Fillet, it’s the bean skordilla that sets this apart from other versions you might find on a restaurant menu. That’s not all, though. Apart from another perfectly cooked piece of fish, there is a feeling of inventiveness that drives the dish.

One particular aspect of the salmon dish is the ‘crackling’. Made from tapioca, and cooked with the juices of the fish, it’s a puffy and crunchy accompaniment that is an exciting way to add a different texture. The lemon and caper sauce combines two of salmons’ best-matched flavours and brings them together to deliver the full package.

For dessert, there are plenty of options that catch the eye.

A maple and ginger tarte tatin plays the perfect support role to the Caramelised Pear. There are strong and crunchy hits of the ginger that adds a kick among the sweetness of the other elements. While the vanilla bean ice-cream provides contrasting temperature, it’s the heavily caramelised glazed that provides the highlights of flavour. It’s great fun, with simple ingredients showing off the best of their potential.

One idea on the menu we simply had to try was strawberry salsa. It makes an appearance on the Mango Melba – a fun and pretty interpretation of the peach classic. The buttermilk pudding makes for a strong base, while the sweet and textured mango puree is the heroic contrast. Topped with fairy floss, it’s hard to know what more you could possibly want of a dessert (except, for perhaps, another one!).

Courtyard Restaurant is the perfect package of a gorgeous setting, efficient and friendly service and a menu that commands multiple visits. With plenty of free parking immediately behind the hotel it’s an easy choice for a relaxed and comfortable meal. Plus, with the ability to retire to the foyer and enjoy a glass of wine by the fire, what better way to end a perfect evening?